The industrial city of GYÖR (pronounced "Dyur") harbours a waterfront Belváros stuffed with Baroque mansions and churches, where streets
bustle and restaurants vie for custom. The city also makes an excellent base for excursions to Pannonhalma Monastery.
Gyor's history owes much to its location at the confluence of
three rivers - the Rába, the Rábca and the Mosoni-Duna
- in the centre of the Little Plain. The place was named Arrabona by the
Romans, after a local Celtic tribe whom they subjugated, while its
current name derives from gyürü, the Avar word for a circular fortress.
During the Turkish occupation of Hungary, its castle was a Habsburg
stronghold and the town was known as Raab (after the Rába River). After
its military role diminished, Györ gained industrial muscle and a
different kind of clout. In the 1956 Uprising, its town hall was
occupied by a radical Provisional National Council that pressed the
government to get Soviet troops out and to quit the Warsaw Pact
immediately.
Around the downtown
A web of streets and alleys stretching from
Széchenyi tér to Káptalandomb, the old quarter is covered by
preservation orders and traffic restrictions, making it a pleasure to
wander around. Heading up pedestrianized Baross Gábor utca, antique side
streets beckon on your left, narrow and shadowy with overhanging
timbered houses - the perfect setting for a conspiracy. Indeed,
Communists met secretly during the Horthy years at no. 15 on Sárlo köz,
a cobbled alley forking off Kazinczy utca.
Chances are your emerge on to Bécsi kapu tér, overlooking the River
Rába, which reputedly escaped flooding in the eighteenth century thanks
to a miracle working statue of Mary of the Foam, occupying a chapel
beside the former Carmelite church. Entering through a portal whose
inscription proclaims "I worked zealously for the Lord of Hosts", you’ll
find a richly decorated high altar and other furnishings carved by Franz
Richter, a lay brother in the order. Behind the church stands the
erstwhile monastery, subsequently used as a refugee centre and military
prison and now converted into the Hotel Klastrom. On the eastern side of
the square are two mansions with finely wrought ironwork.
The Zichy Palace built in 1778-82, has a balconied Zopf-style
facade bearing the coat of arms of the Ott family, who owned it at a
later date. Next door stands the Altabek House (no. 12), with two comer
one] windows dating back to the sixteenth century, and a Baroque
portico. Just around the corner at Alkotmány utca 4 is the so-called
Napoleon House where the emperor stayed during a visit in 1809, and
which now contains a picture gallery of mostly nineteenth-century works.
From Bécsi kapu tér you can carry on uphill past the surviving bastions
of Györ's sixteenth-century Castle, where visitors can see a courtyard
full of medieval stonework and underground casements. The castle
successfully resisted the Turks for decades - unlike the town, which was
frequently devastated.
Káptalandomb and the waterfront
Káptalandomb (Chapter Hill) has been crowned by a Cathedral ever since
King Stephen made Györ an Episcopal town in the eleventh century, so the
existing building incorporates Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque features.
Just inside the entrance, the Gothic Hederváry Chapel contains a
reliquary bust of Saint László, the canonized monarch who ruled from
1077 to 1095. Sensitively moulded and richly enameled, it is a superb
example of the goldsmith's art from the workshop of the Kolozsvári
brothers. The frescoes inside the cathedral were painted by Maulbertsch,
who decorated numerous Hungarian churches in the eighteenth century,
while the Bishop's throne was a gift from Empress Maria Theresa.
The building to the southeast of the cathedral houses the Miklós Borsos
Collection of paintings and sculptures by the self-taught artist who
designed the Kilometre Zero monument on Clark Adam tér in Budapest. In
the other direction lies the Bishop's Palace (Püspökvár), a much
remodeled edifice whose oldest section dates from the thirteenth
century.
From here you can walk down Káptalandomb utca past the Zopf-style
Provost House to reach the Ark of the Covenant, a splendid Baroque
monument erected by Emperor Karl III by way of an apology for the
Habsburg soldiers who knocked the monstrance from a priest's hands
during a Corpus Christi procession in 1727. Just beyond lies Duna-kapu
tér, a waterfront square alongside which Danube grain ships once moored,
and where food markets are still held on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Notice the iron weathercock on top of the well, an allusion to the one
that the Turks fixed above the town's gate, boasting that they would
never leave Györ until it crowed.
Across the river
Should you want a change of scenery, cross the
Mosoni-Duna River to the Révfalu district, where a fifteen-minute
walk will bring you to the Bishop's Wood (Püspök-erdö, an attractive
park with deer and other fauna. Alternatively, you can cross the Rába
via a small island linked by bridge to Bécsi kapu tér and the Sziget
district. At the northern tip of Sziget there's a swimming pool that's
open during the summer and an outdoor thermal bath that's open
year-round. Nearby at Kossuth utca 5 is a domed former Synagogue built
in 1869 - worth a visit if you can get inside.
Around Széchenyi tér
There's more to see, however, behind Duna-kapu tér, starting with the
Margit Kovacs Collection at Apáca utca 1. This is just as delightful as
the museum of her work in Szentendre , but closer to home, as Kovács
(1902-77) was born in Györ. On the other side of the road, Bread Alley
(Kenyér köz) and Soap Alley (Szappanos köz) lead to Széchenyi tér,
traditionally the main square, overlooked by eye-like attic windows from
the steep roofs of surrounding buildings.
Notice the Iron Stump House on the northern side of the square,
called after a wooden beam into which traveling journeymen hammered
nails to mark their sojourn. The building now contains the Imre Patkó
Collection of paintings and African art, which deserves a visit.
Next-door is the Xantus János Museum, named after a locally
educated archeologist (1825-94) who emigrated to America and
subsequently traveled in China. You can buy a leaflet in English
describing the varied and fascinating artifacts relating to local
history, while the collection of tiled stoves needs no explanation.
Further east, take a look into the Tuscan Renaissance-style courtyard of
the erstwhile Hospice at Rákóczi utca 6; a second courtyard at the back
contains a fountain embellished with statues of birds. Back on Széchenyi
tér, with its ornate Marian Column commemorating the recapture of Buda
Castle from the Turks, the Benedictine Church of Saint Ignatius was
designed by the Italian Baccio del Bianco in the 1630s. A painting in
the sanctuary by the Viennese artist Troger (1794) depicts the saint's
apotheosis. Beside the adjacent monastery is the Pharmacy Museum, a
beautifully furnished seventeenth-century apothecary that still
functions as a pharmacy.
SEE GYÖR HOTELS ON THE MAP!